The view from the Red Zone
http://www.guardian.co.uk/weekend/story/0,3605,1399843,00.html
Rory McCarthy has been the Guardian's correspondent in Iraq for nearly
two years. In his diary of the turbulent months leading up to
tomorrow's election, he describes Baghdad friends' increasing
disillusion with the occupation and the mounting difficulties faced by
journalists trying to tell the story
Saturday January 29, 2005
The Guardian
Sunday November 7 2004
I flew back into Baghdad today after a short break in Egypt. The plane
from Amman is run by the national airline, Royal Jordanian, but it is
flown and crewed by South Africans. It is small and often crowded, and
perhaps this exaggerates the size of the passengers. They are nearly
all white and powerfully built, dressed ostensibly in civilian clothes
but wearing their own hints of uniform: identical, unmarked black
rucksacks bought from the military PX, ochre suede desert boots and
black purses round their necks to hold their identity cards. They are
contractors, either providing food and housing at US bases, or running
security teams for diplomats or other contractors. Most are ex-military
men chasing high wages, escaping the confinements of the west in the
lawlessness of Iraq. Apart from soldiers, diplomats and journalists,
they are the only foreigners arriving in Baghdad these days.
Rory McCarthy
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